On The Water:

As you pass under the I95 bridge, the river opens up to wide expanse with some shallows to port and the deep channel to starboard which runs along the marshland islands of Calves, Goose, and Nott. There are relatively deep channels that run inside each of these islands and you can make out boats moored in their lee. Old Lyme Marina is nestled in the sheltered cove behind Calves Island, and the mooring field extends up into the spur. Wide channel running between the anchorage and the waterfront lets you take a spin around the sights before settling into Essex. 

You can see past the islands to the mainland in places, where lovely homes infrequently dot the landscape.

Essex sits in a bend on the river so you can’t really miss it.  After you pass under the I-95 bridge, continue up river until it bends to the right.  If you go straight, you’ll be in the mooring field.  Essex Yacht Club is to the left, Essex Corinthian Yacht Club to the right. The Chandlery at Essex is located between the two prestigious yacht clubs and the Steamboat Dock. The marina is home to three centuries of shipbuilding and marine tradition.

Essex Island Marina is to the right (farther upriver), but it can be disorienting because you can see into South and North Coves.  If you follow the private aids to navigation, you can do a complete paddle by of all the facilities through a clear channel that runs parallel to the shore.   Keep in mind that there is a swift current running through there.

Essex looks like a village out of the 17th century, which it happens to be.  It has not really changed much. 

Hamburg Cove

From Essex you continue upriver to experience the famous Hamburg Cove.  The approach from the River to the Cove is interesting without local knowledge but not difficult if you follow marks carefully.  Leave Brockway Island to port as you head up the River, then turn right directly across from the Island ’s midsection and follow the channel between CG1 and RN2 until you are all the way into the Cove past G13. 

As you head up the cove past several very lovely homes into a narrow inlet that opens onto a small harbor. The harbor is home to a marina specializing in restoration of vintage yachts.