Canoe Basics

Canoe Paddles - How To Choose A Canoe Paddle

The best canoe paddle for you depends on what kind of paddling you want to do.

Quite simply, a paddle is a blade attached to a shaft. Some paddles have a blade at each end of the shaft, some have a blade at one end and a grip at the other. To make things simple, we'll call single-bladed paddles canoe paddles and double-bladed paddles kayak paddles-because that's how they are used most of the time.

For general recreation, look for a paddle with a comfortable soft T-grip or pear grip, and a mid-sized or smaller blade. Consider a fiberglass or aluminum shaft with a stout plastic blade. There are some very nice entry-level wooden paddles out there as well. A heavier paddle will cost less, generally, but we'd argue for spending a little money to reduce the weight. You'll have a lot more fun with a light, comfortable paddle.

For canoe trippers moving loaded canoes at cruising speed for hours on end, paddle durability and light weight are very important. Team a pear or soft T-grip with a smaller beavertail or tulip-shaped blade with a bit of flex to ease the jolt of all those strokes. Consider fiberglass, synthetic composites, or wood, and a 12- to 14-degree bent-shaft.

For whitewater canoeing, control is the issue, with a T-grip to control the angle and a broad rectangular or tulip blade for power and stability in aerated water. Shaft flex should be minimal. Blade tip and edge protection are vital components. The best materials are fiberglass or laminated wood.

Finding The Right Length The most efficient shaft length (grip to throat) is the distance from your mouth to the water when you're in paddling position. That varies if you sit or kneel, if you're high in a deep tripping canoe, or low in a competition cruiser. Add the 20- to 24-inch blade length and you're in the ballpark. Most paddlers will do fine with a 56- or 58-inch paddle. Bent-shaft paddlers often want a shorter paddle, in the 50- to 54-inch range.

Blade Shape Short, wide blades provide the most purchase in aerated water as well as the quickest application of power-the basic needs of whitewater paddlers. Longer, narrower blades grip less water with each stroke, but require less energy, providing a more efficient cadence.

There is a tremendous difference in the feel of a tapered and a non-tapered blade as the tapered blade slides out of the water so much easier.

Power Face – The face of the blade that contacts the water during a forward stroke.

Back Face – the face of the blade opposite the power face.

Spooned Blade Face – A curved spoon-like face which provides an aggressive catch and crisp response.

Symmetrical Blade Face – The blade face is straight

Soft Edges vs. Hard Edges – Hard edges offer quicker response, soft edges are more versatile and forgiving.

Blade Size : Like a longer shaft, a bigger blade area lets you apply more power, but also demands more effort on each stroke. In whitewater, canoeists like shorter and wider, more powerful blades because they allow cranking quick turns. On lakes or gentle rivers there's less need to turn quickly, so canoeists often find they are happier with smaller blades. Smaller blades need to be paddled at a slightly higher stroke-rate, but demand less effort for individual stroke. This is usually easier on wrists and shoulders, especially when paddling a heavily loaded boat.

Grip Shape Your choice of grip should reflect the type of water you paddle. An angular T-grip provides precise and powerful control of your blade angle for whitewater. The "squashed ball" of a pear-shaped grip offers comfort and efficiency for hour after hour of tripping distances. The arced top of a "soft" T reaches to meet the elongated ears of a broad pear grip for the paddler cruising in-between waters.

Shaft Shape Round shafts are easier to make. Oval shafts, at right angles to the blade face, are more comfortable. There is no standard diameter. Try a variety of paddles before you buy. Too large a shaft, and your hand tires. Too small, and your hands will cramp.

Bent-shaft or Straight For flatwater paddling, more and more canoeists are abandoning the j-stroke and going for the sit-and-switch style of paddling first adopted by canoe racers. It's more efficient and less tiring. Paddlers on moving water usually want the precise control of a straight-shaft paddle.

Bent-shaft paddles have the blade tilted forward from the shaft. This positions the blade vertically in the water during the most powerful part of a forward stroke, making for great comfort and efficiency for flatwater racing or touring.

Bent-shaft paddles can be awkward for braces and drawstrokes, so many touring canoeists carry a conventional, straight-shaft paddle as a spare and switch to it when running whitewater.

Bent or Straight Shaft Paddle

Canoe paddles come in a range of materials:

Wood is unmatched by any synthetic material in its liveliness, flex, and warmth in the hands. They are generally slightly heavier than fiber composite paddles, but lighter than plastic and aluminum ones. Wooden paddles do require some maintenance, ranging from the occasional dab of varnish on a chipped area to a full sanding and refinishing.

One-piece wooden paddles, which exude an inherent classic beauty, are primarily used for flatwater canoeing. The most commonly used woods – from heaviest to lightest – are maple, ash, cherry, basswood, spruce, and butternut.

Laminated wood paddles are made from strips of wood bonded together with strong glues. Since they usually have a wider blade than one-piece wood paddles they work well for touring trips where a variety of water depths are encountered. They also suit racing and whitewater paddling.

Lamination makes paddles quite stiff, so they transfer power better than one-piece paddles, but aren't as lively or shock absorbing. The more layers of lamination, the stronger, stiffer, and more expensive a paddle will be.

These paddles can be made with fiberglass, and carbon or graphite fibers, and are impregnated with one of a variety of resins. Because they can be made thinner than other materials, composite blades cut into the water more efficiently.

On their own, fiberglass paddles are light and moderately flexible and stiff. Carbon is stiff and very light which is particularly welcome during races, when swinging heavier paddles back and forth thousands of times can thrash shoulders and wrists.

Manufacturers blend different ratios of carbon and fiberglass to create their idea of the optimum balance of lightness, stiffness, and flexibility. (Some "carbon" paddles cost more than other carbon paddles because they have a higher carbon content.)

Made of polypropylene, polyethylene, or nylon, plastic paddles are durable and very low-maintenance, though heavier than fiber composites. Plastic blades with aluminum shafts make tough, inexpensive spares for touring.

Durability: Choose a canoe paddle that can withstand all sorts of abuse, such as impact, heat, and constant exposure to water. This is especially important for whitewater riding, as the paddle is bound to hit a lot of rocks and drag across rough surfaces. Look for one made of waterproof materials, such as fiberglass or plastic. If you prefer the aesthetic quality of wood, make sure it comes with a water resistant coating, otherwise it will soften and rot easily.

Weight: Choose a lightweight canoe paddle that you can hold and turn for long periods without getting tired. For racing or marathon paddles, the ideal weight is about two pounds. Make sure, however, that durability and performance are not compromised. Fiberglass and carbon fiber are excellent choices, although they are much more expensive than wood and metal.

Once only found in the domain of the marathon racer, these efficient paddles have gained popularity in recent years with recreational paddlers. Long hours on the water make every technical advantage a windfall.

Determining Proper Paddle Length

Types Of Canoe Paddles

Different Styles Canoe Paddles