|
|
Connecticut Water Trails
Program
Canoe Basics
Paddling A Canoe
The basic
theory of paddling a canoe is to place the paddle in the water and move
the canoe toward it. There are only two actions possible with a
canoe paddle: you can place the paddle in the water and pull the canoe
toward the paddle, or you can place the paddle in the water and push the
canoe away from it. Pulling and pushing are the only options because
the paddle blade has only two sides!
|
Right:
This
is the proper paddle position.
Stroke as close to the centerline of the canoe as possible.
|
|
|
Wrong:
This paddle angle will cause the canoe
to turn rather than make forward movement.
|
The basic
theory of paddling a canoe is to place the paddle in the water and move
the canoe toward it. There are only two actions possible with a
canoe paddle: you can place the paddle in the water and pull the canoe
toward the paddle, or you can place the paddle in the water and push the
canoe away from it. Pulling and pushing are the only options because
the paddle blade has only two sides!
Keep the paddle
as near vertical as possible. Your upper hand should be at eye
level. Reach out with your lower hand as far as possible, arm fully
extended. Dip the blade in the water and push with your upper hand.
Don't continue the stroke beyond your body, as you'll waste effort.
Keep it in front of you. The idea is to create a fulcrum with your
arms. Remember, move the canoe toward the paddle. Slice the
blade out of the water by dropping the top hand and feather the blade
during the recovery. Switching sides is okay, it rests some muscles,
while helping to maintain course. You can switch sides every 5-6
strokes to keep the canoe going straight without using a steering stroke.
One canoeist can call "hut" and you switch sides together.
Paddling with two people is very much a team effort.
Usually the bow (front) and stern (back) canoeists paddle on opposite
sides. The bow canoeist is responsible for the power strokes that
keep the canoe moving. The stern canoeist adds to the power, but is
also responsible for setting the direction of the canoe and fine
adjustments to the canoe's balance. If both parties keep a regular
stroke pace and change sides at consistent intervals, all will usually go
well. However if the bow canoeist tries to take control by steering
the canoe using his paddle or changing sides frequently, problems will
occur and the canoe could veer off course. To avoid these problems
let the stern canoeist control the canoe direction. The bow canoeist
determines the frequency of changing sides and is on the watch for
underwater rocks and logs.
Basic Canoe Strokes
There are eight basic strokes: the Forward or Power stroke, the Reverse or
Back stroke, the Sweep stroke, the "J" stroke, the Stern Rudder stroke,
the Draw stroke, the Pry stroke and the Sculling stroke. The
examples shown explain how to maneuver the canoe without having to change
sides for paddling:
|
Forward or Power Stroke:
To paddle on the left side, place your right hand on the grip.
It controls the blade angle. Your left hand holds the
shaft several inches above the blade. Keep this hand out of
the water. Wet hands only cause blisters. (To paddle on
the right, just reverse hands).
|
|
Reverse or Backwater Stroke:
This important stroke gives you time to decide which way to
go, slow your approach to a standing wave, or for an emergency
stop. Opposite to the power stroke. An important
stroke for abrupt stops such as when you encounter underwater
rocks or logs.
|
|
Sweep Stroke:
This stroke is used for partial pivots and turns, and great
when you are canoeing solo. The sweep is similar to the
forward stroke, however the paddle (in this example at the
stern) is extended further out over the water, and allows you
to make turns opposite to the side of the stern canoeist.
|
|
J' Stroke:
To keep a canoe on course, the stern canoeist must make some
adjustments to his stroke. The most common way is by
using the traditional 'J' stroke. Flip the paddle out at
the end of a forward stroke and either push out (pry) or
rudder to maintain a straight course. This movement
pulls the canoe slightly to the side of the stern canoeist.
Best stroke when soloing in a canoe.
|
|
Stern Rudder:
Depending on the power stroke of the bow canoeist, canoes tend
to drift opposite to the side the stern canoeist is paddling
on. To adjust the direction of the canoe to maintain a
straight path or harder turn, the stern canoeist braces his
paddle against (or near) the side gunwale and rotates his
paddle outward at an angle, creating a rudder. This
movement pulls the canoe harder to the side of the stern
canoeist.
|
|
Draw Stroke:
The draw stroke is used to change the direction or rotate the
canoe opposite to the side of the stern canoeist. The
draw is a deep stroke. Lean out over the water as you
begin your stroke, Pull the paddle inward towards the
canoe. Remove the paddle before you hit the canoe and do not
let the paddle get swept under. While stationary, with
both canoeists applying the draw stroke, the canoe rotates
quickly. When paddling, the bow canoeist can use the
draw and the stern canoeist apply the sweep stroke to quickly
turn the canoe.
|
|
Pry
or Push-over Stroke:
Opposite to the draw stroke, the pry stroke will rotate the
canoe on the same side of the stern canoeist. It is
another deep stroke. Place your paddle close to the side
gunwale and push straight out. While stationary, with
both canoeists applying the pry stroke, the canoe rotates
quickly. When paddling, the bow canoeist uses the pry
and the stern canoeist applies the stern rudder to quickly
turn the canoe. Like the draw stroke, this becomes a great
stroke to evade underwater rocks and trees.
|
|
Sculling or Feathering Stroke:
Keep the paddle in the water at all times and both canoeists
feather on the same side. Rotate the blade in an arc or
figure eight fashion as you pull the paddle towards you.
This is a slow moving, quiet, but precise stroke for coming
alongside an object such as another canoe, a dock or the
shore.
|
|
