Connecticut Water Trails Association
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Connecticut Water Trails Association |
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Connecticut Water Trails Program Kayaking Basics How To Choose A Kayak Paddle
What kind of kayak
paddle you choose depends on what kind of paddling you want to do.
Whitewater kayaking is
about control, and that means a rigid shaft with wider blades (and tip
and edge protection). Most are feathered and the most popular materials
are fiberglass and wood. Pricey composites (graphite, carbon fiber) are
growing in popularity. Most have one-piece shafts, feathered blades, and
right-hand control. Touring kayak paddles
are designed for efficiency and comfort during many hours of paddling.
Most are two-piece with adjustable ferrule positions, allowing for
feathered or unfeathered paddling. These paddles also allow a fair
amount of flex, mostly for the paddler's comfort. Blades tend to be
narrower and smaller, asymmetrical, and lightweight. Common materials
include aluminum shafts with thermoplastic blades, as well as
fiberglass, composites (graphite, carbon fiber, etc.), and wood.
For whitewater
kayaking, buy a paddle that's 191-200 cm long. If you're really tall, or
an ex-racer, you might want 200 cm. If you're a real hairboater, and
want the additional bracing and stability of a high paddle cadence, you
might want a 191-cm paddle.
If you hold your
paddle high, like a racer, and paddle with a rapid cadence, shave two to
four centimeters off the length. If you paddle with the shaft low
(navel-high), and with a slower cadence, you'll want a slightly longer
paddle. The proper shaft length puts the junction of your paddle blade
and shaft right at the waterline. Long, narrow blades create an overall
longer paddle than short, wide ones.
Blade Shape Whitewater blades tend to be shorter and wider than their touring counterparts in order to provide power and grip in aerated water. Touring blades tend to be longer, narrower, and smaller, for a smooth and efficient paddling stroke that can be maintained all day. Smaller blades are easier to control in the wind.
Symmetry Imagine a line down the paddle shaft and continued across the blade. If both halves are mirror images, the blade is symmetrical. There's a growing trend toward asymmetrical kayak blades. The asymmetry equalizes the force on each side of the blade (top and bottom), resulting in less twisting of the paddle.
Shaft Shape
Oval shafts are more comfortable to hold than round shafts, and let your
muscles index the relative angle of your blades. Too large a diameter
for your hand and it will tire; too small and it may cramp. Most shafts
are straight, but we're seeing more "double-crank" shafts bent at the
hand positions for more comfortable and efficient long-distance
paddling.
Feathering
There is no right answer for this ages-old debate. Kayak paddles were originally feathered (with the blades set at an angle to each other) to reduce wind resistance for the blade as it moves forward through the air. A feathered blade slices through the air, an unfeathered blade bulls its way through. The most efficient returning blade is at right angles to the blade in the water, meaning you would need to rotate your wrist 90 degrees with each stroke. You'll not last long doing this, we assure you. Blades comfortably feathered between 30 and 75 degrees can kite and dive in a headwind, while a beam wind may lift the windward blade of a feathered paddle.
A feathered paddle in
the 75-degree range is more aerodynamically efficient than an
unfeathered paddle. Virtually anyone can master a feathered paddle,
though some people complain of wrist pain from the repetitive rotation
it requires. Choose whichever is more comfortable for you - that is what
is best for you.
Swing Weight Lighter is better but, combined with durability,
costs a lot more. Paring even a fraction of an ounce from a paddle blade
dramatically reduces the aggregate weight you lift and swing during a
day that requires 20,000 paddle strokes.
Aluminum-shafted models with molded plastic blades range from ponderous
clubs to suitable paddles. Yes, they tend to be heavier, shafts are
round rather than comfortably oval, and aluminum is cold to the touch -
but the better paddles in this group are cost-effective for kids and
infrequent paddlers, as well as for your own emergency spare. Whitewater or touring,
fiberglass is the choice of most enthusiast and recreational
paddlers-light, durable, and reasonably affordable. A neat combo is a
fiberglass shaft with a lighter-weight composite blade, resulting in an
overall increase in performance without a major jump in price. Wood is lovely to the
eye and to the touch. Prices range from affordable to what you'd pay for
fine art, and some of the paddles will qualify as fine art. Wooden
whitewater paddles will have protective edges and tips. Some paddles are
sheathed in fiberglass, others are protected with thick layers of
varnish. Composites, such as
graphite and carbon fiber, result in strong, featherweight paddles that
unfortunately come with a heavy price tag. If you want to leave miles in
your wake or shave tenths of seconds from your time, they're
delightfully worth it. If you want to bang around in the shallows or
surf, each whack is fiscally painful.
Winging It
With a conventional paddle, the blade is inserted in the water near your
ankles and serves as an anchor toward which you pull your kayak. A wing paddle features
a blade shaped more like an airplane wing. When moved laterally through
the water, it creates forward lift, which pulls the boat along. The wing
tracks very solidly in the water, and also encourages torso rotation and
straighter-arm paddling. With these paddles,
low braces work, rolls are fine, and sweeps are okay, as long as you
only do the first half. The downside is that if you try a high brace or
a sculling stroke, you're likely to swim. Steering corrections made at
the end of a stroke don't work. Most recreational or
touring paddlers will be happier with a conventional blade. For those
who demand a couple of percentage points greater speed at the cost of
some stroke versatility, the wing is an option worth exploring.
To fit the paddle to you, place the center of the shaft on the top of your head, holding the shaft with both hands in a paddling grip. You should kind of look like a body builder posing. Your elbows should be bent at 90 degrees square, making a rectangle of two long sides (the shaft and your upper arms) and two short sides (your lower arms) with your head in the middle. A mirror or buddy can help you. Your hands should be no more than two grips to the end of the shaft, the beginning of the blade, and no less than one grip.
What Paddling Style Do You Have?
High Angle Style High Angle paddling is typically a more aggressive style of paddling using a faster cadence and wider variety of strokes. It is very dynamic and commonly used for fitness paddling, playing in current, or in rugged conditions where power is needed.
Low Angle Style
Low Angle is the most common paddling style. It is a relaxed touring style
with a more relaxed cadence. Low Angle paddling is less fatiguing on
paddle days when long distances or multi day trips are planned.
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