Connecticut Water Trails Association
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Connecticut Water Trails Association |
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Connecticut Water Trails Program Whitewater Kayaking Basics
Undoubtedly, the fastest and most exciting variety of kayaking is whitewater kayaking. A single occupant in a tiny boat riding the rapids is the idea behind this sport. A whitewater kayak can come in different sizes and shapes for different styles of whitewater sport. A little information can help choose the right whitewater kayak.
Whitewater kayaking can be a simple, relaxed and carefree gentle movement of the kayak over the water or it can be a dangerous and demanding whitewater.
Whitewater kayaks are usually shorter than the normal kayaks. Their size ranges between five to ten feet. Paddlers prefer shorter boats which is more maneuverable but slower. As whitewater paddling is used mainly for recreational purposes and does not require much speed this is just convenient.
The current explosion of innovative whitewater kayak designs has led to the development of many crossover boats that blend features and handling characteristics of boats from formerly separate whitewater categories.
Whitewater kayaks which are used for racing are generally made to specific lengths. These are usually longer than the play boats and are made of fiber which is reinforced with resin for maximum speed. They are also lighter and stiffer than the play boat models.
Types of Whitewater Kayaks
In general, there are three categories of whitewater boats:
Downriver boats are boats that fall somewhere in between high-volume creekers and low-volume play machines. These boats are intended to allow people to cruise down the river in comfort and control, while still offering design features that make some basic play moves possible. Downriver boats in general will have mid- to high-volume bow decks that shed water quickly, and mid- to low-volume stern decks. Most will tend to be a bit longer than current freestyle designs. This added length will increase the tracking ability of the boat and allow the boat to move faster in a straight line.
River-running is similar to other types of kayaking. River-runners ride the rivers, including the rapids, enjoying the scenery. Some river-running excursions can run for days. The more competitive kayakers can turn a simple river run into a race traveling from one point of the river to another as quickly as possible. A regular river kayak built for stability and maneuverability is good for this sport. A whitewater kayak that can accommodate some cargo is good for longer trips.
These all around moving-water kayaks go downriver easily but are sporty enough for playing in river features such as holes, standing waves, or eddies. Even beginner boats in this category usually have planing hulls. These boats feature moderately tapered bows and sterns that can be spun and turned relatively easily.
To maximize maneuverability, freestyle boats are shorter (seven feet or often less), lower volume, and highly rockered (strongly curved along the bottom from end to end). All these features facilitate rapid turns, spins, and aerial maneuvers. Freestyle boats have planing hulls.
Used mainly for surfing waves and holes and performing freestyle tricks, play boats tend to have a lot less volume in the front and back decks, making them rather unsuitable for river-running without the proper experience. The squashed decks allow the ends to sink underwater, so paddlers can perform vertical play moves. Volume centered around the cockpit ensures stability in this vertical realm. Today's play boats all feature a planing hull, which is very flat to allow the boat to plane to the surface of the river when it attains speed. When planing, the boat can spin around a central point. On waves, this is what makes flat-spins possible. In holes, the planing hull offers increased positioning and directional control. Chines can be utilized to carve and create drag, so that the paddler can deliberately set up for a particular rodeo move.
In addition, these boats usually have radically tapered bows and sterns (a.k.a. "slicey ends") that minimize your chances of standing on end or cartwheeling. Many freestyle boats have hard rails (straight lines along the sides) and even surfboard-like fins. Both features provide bite into the water for carving aggressive turns. The (literal) flip side of rails is that they make the boat less forgiving of misjudgments in the way you distribute your weight.
Optimized for running steep, boulder-laden creeks and dropping over waterfalls. Their displacement hulls offer some flotation even if brought to a stop in a hole or skimming over frothy, unsupportive water. Their blunt, high-volume ends surface quickly after a plunge and resist getting wedged between rocks. Longer creek boats offer enough cargo room for overnight trips if desired. Their round lines make them handle predictably in big water, and make them easier for beginners to roll.
What's Next
Once you've determined which style of kayaking appeals to you most, it's time to look for a boat to buy. One of the best options available is the used kayak market. With boat designs evolving so quickly, it's common to find people who are looking to sell off their current boat so as to buy something brand new. Kayaks that are only a year or two old will often be found for sale at a price much lower than a new boat. From a beginner's perspective, the difference between a new kayak design and a design from a few years back will be generally unnoticeable. Buying used is a great opportunity to save a few hundred dollars and still get a piece of equipment that will be useful for many years.
The absolute best way to get a feel for a kayak is to paddle one on the water. Clearly, this is not always possible. Failing an on-the-water demo, try to at least sit in the kayak before making a decision. If you are looking at buying a used boat from someone, but can't get a chance to sit in the actual boat you might buy, see if any local kayakers or kayak clubs or retailers have the same model and will let you sit in theirs. Make sure the boat is appropriate for your body size.
Kayak designs typically have an intended weight range, which indicates who will best fit that boat. Try to put yourself near the middle of a weight range. If you seem to be between sizes, get the boat that is a little too big for you instead of the one that is a little too small. In the beginning, comfort is key. You will learn better if your feet aren't in pain and your legs aren't falling asleep. You'll get enough of that when you buy your first freestyle kayak. For now, find something you feel like you could spend a few hours in without discomfort.
Many manufacturers are making two or three different sizes of the same boat design to accommodate people of all shapes and sizes. Look at the manufacturer's web page and literature, or ask the kayak guru at your local retailer to help you find the size that is right for you.
Don't be afraid of getting the "wrong" boat. If you are like most people who are just learning, you've got a lot of time on the water ahead of you, and plenty of time to determine what you like and what you don't. Your first boat is just a vehicle to let you get your feet wet, so to speak. Any whitewater kayak is good if it gets you on the water. As you progress and get more familiar with the differences in boats and what those differences mean in terms of performance, you'll start getting a feel for what the "right" boat for you is. At that point, you can look into putting your old kayak on the used market and start seeking out the perfect craft to carry you downstream for the next few years.
Types Of Hulls
The Hull
The shape of the bottom of the boat. Manufactured as a displacement or planing hull Whitewater boats also have two types of hulls:
Displacement hulls are the traditional form of a boat's bottom. Generally, the profile and the cross-section of the hull has continuous curves. Displacement-hull boats plow through the water efficiently due to their rounded, streamlined shape. Because of the "center line" created by the bottom of the curve, displacement-hull boats have a keel, and tend to track easier.
Displacement hulls retain their buoyancy even when they are not moving forward. On the downside, this flotation-providing volume must be pushed through the water and makes displacement hulls slower. These hulls' round bottoms are designed to minimize water resistance as they are paddled forward.
Planing Hulls
Planing hulls have a flat bottom, and the sides come up from the bottom at a defined angle. When at rest, or when paddled very slowly, planing-hull boats plow through the water. When the boat is given some speed, the flat surface skims to the water's surface, and allows the boat to spin with less effort. Although the boat spins easily, it can be difficult for a paddler to keep it moving in a straight line.
The inner capacity of a kayak, usually measured
in gallons. The style of boating you desire will determine which volume of
boat is best for your needs.
High Volume
High volume boats have "ballooned" ends, and will resurface quickly. This is a benefit for beginners and creek-boaters running more difficult rapids and waterfalls. The big, rounded bow and stern decks shed water quickly, allowing the boat to remain on the top of the water.
Low Volume
Low volume boats have thin, sometimes even scooped bow and stern decks with minimal space inside the ends. This thin profile allows the ends to cut into the water, making today's freestyle moves possible. In difficult whitewater, however, swirling currents can easily wash over the decks, inhibiting both speed and control.
The line where the boat's bottom and sides join is called the chine. Described as either hard or soft, chines define the shape of the hull as either boxy or rounded.
Hard Chines
Hard chines provide edge control for carving and allow the boat to continue planing even when turned sideways or while spinning. However, sharp edges can catch easily, and flip the boat instantly. While the general purpose of the chine is universal, there are as many styles of chines as there are styles of boats. A perfect 90-degree chine would offer the highest performance; but most boaters would find them impossible to control. Recent designs seek to find a compromise between performance and forgiveness. Hard chines demand attention and good technique, but new boaters should not be afraid to start with this type of boat. In fact, learning to kayak in a modern play boat can promote good body control and increase your understanding of river dynamics.
Soft chines offer a more forgiving ride where there is no edge to catch. Boats with less edge offer less carving ability, but they offer a more predictable response when the bottom of the boat comes in contact with shallow river bottoms. Soft edges glance off rocks without catching. Sharp edges catch rocks easily, and can spin the boat backwards or send it off in a random direction.
The curve from bow to stern on the bottom of the boat. Comes in two styles; Kick and Continuous.
Kick rocker is when the center of the bottom is relatively flat, and the
ends angle up drastically. This creates a short, flat disc surface that
sits on top of the water while keeping the tips well above the surface,
making play moves easier.
Continuous rockers when the bottom has one continuous curve from end to end. The curved bottom minimizes the length of boat in contact with the water, allowing for quicker turns and a higher degree of maneuverability. Continuous rocker also helps with "boofs" (a technique used to run a steep drop that may be shallow at the base).
Inside The Kayak:
Stability
How easily the boat stays right-side-up in the water. Stability is
broken down into two components; Primary & Secondary.
Primary Stability
Primary stability is the relative stability of a boat that is sitting flat on the water right-side-up. A wider base gives increased primary stability. Planing hulls tend to be wider at the water line and thus provide more primary stability. In flat, motionless water, a planing-hulled boat is harder to flip over than a displacement hulled boat.
Secondary Stability
Secondary stability comes into play when the boat is turned on its side. The more surface area touching the water equals better stability. Good secondary stability helps keep the kayak upright when the paddler's balance goes beyond the primary stability. Generally, no one boat is harder to roll than another. Some boats (like those with good secondary stability) are just easier to roll with bad technique. Technique is the key to good rolls regardless of the boat.
Displacement hulls with soft chines have less primary & more secondary stability.
Planing hulls with hard chines have more primary & less secondary
stability.
Kayak Accessories:
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