Connecticut Water Trails Program

Whitewater Kayaking Basics

How To Choose A Whitewater Paddle

In whitewater kayaking, the paddle becomes an extension of your upper body, so the most logical choice is to use one that feels good to you. Designs vary slightly, but the general anatomy of whitewater paddles is the same.

Whitewater kayaking paddles are available in a variety of materials including fiber composites, fiberglass, carbon, plastic, wood and laminated wood. Each material has its own strengths and weaknesses. Boater size and paddling style will affect choice of paddle.

The most influential factor in choosing a paddle is your size. You need to consider the length of the paddle, the width of the shaft, and the size of the blades. Smaller paddlers should look for a paddle with slightly smaller blades and with a narrower shaft that makes it easier to grip. The stronger you are, the larger the paddle blades you will be able to control. Using a paddle that is too long or too large will cost you some control and could put an undue amount of stress on your body.

When selecting a whitewater kayak paddle, consider the following:

Length

Whitewater kayakers typically select paddles 192-198cm long. If you are able to try your paddle in a store, size the paddle by holding it over your head with your arms out at your sides and your elbows bent at 90°. Your hands should be about one hand's width from where each blade begins.

Go longer (more than 196cm) for creek boating or general river running. A longer paddle provides more leverage for bracing and rolling. Go shorter if you are play boating, where quick strokes and rapid re-deployment are essential.

Paddles are conventionally measured in centimeters. In general, a paddle 196-200 cm in length is good for paddlers between 5'8" and 6'1". For paddlers between 5'3" and 5'8", a paddle 192-196 cm in length should work great. For paddlers taller than 6'1", a paddle between 200 and 204 cm's will be of ample length.

Bent or Straight Shafts

Bent shafts keep your wrists at a neutral angle to your forearms throughout a stroke. This reduces wrist fatigue and lets you apply power more efficiently and predictably. The more natural alignment also allows all four fingers to stay easily in full contact with the shaft. Due to their simpler shape, straight shafts tend to be stronger, as well as less expensive.

Straight Shaft                                                 Bent Shaft

Blades

The two blades are attached to a shaft that can be straight or bent in various ways. The blades may be symmetrical or asymmetrical in shape, but all have a slightly concave power (front) face and a non-power (back) face.

Blade size affects the amount of power you can apply. Opt for bigger blades for maximum power if you're play boating. Select medium size blades for creeking and general river running. You can also match blade size to your body size: bigger person, bigger blade, smaller person, smaller blade.

Blade shapes are also designed to apply power efficiently. Asymmetrical profiles (top of the blade is longer than the bottom) ensure an equal area of blade surface is submerged on either side of the blade's centerline during a stroke. This balances pressure on the blade and prevents twisting.

Spoon blades grip the water well and provide instant power.

Dihedral blades curve back above and below their center lines, away from their power faces (the blade sides towards the back of the kayak). During a stroke, water flows smoothly along both these curves, reducing flutter and the effort to hold the paddle.

You will also need to consider the offset of your blades. The offset, or "twist," refers to the difference in angles between the two blades. Traditional kayak paddles have blades that are offset at ninety degrees so that as one blade pulls through the water, the other slices efficiently through the air. For whitewater kayaking, a thirty- or forty-five-degree twist is most popular, although many of us are now using paddles with no offset at all. A lower offset means less repetitive twisting of the wrist, which can help prevent tendonitis and can facilitate some moves. For general whitewater paddling, try a paddle with blades offset at 30-degrees.

Materials

Fiber composites include fiberglass and carbon or graphite fibers that are impregnated with resins. Composite blades can be made thinner than other materials, so they cut into the water more efficiently.

Fiberglass paddles are light and moderately flexible and stiff.

Carbon is stiff and very light. Manufacturers blend different ratios of carbon and fiberglass to create a balance of lightness, stiffness, and flexibility. Generally, the higher the carbon content the more expensive the paddle.

Plastic, or polypropylene, polyethylene, or nylon paddles are durable and very low-maintenance, though heavier than fiber composites. Plastic blades with aluminum shafts make tough, inexpensive paddles for bashing rock gardens or carrying as spares.

Wood Paddles have been largely replaced by synthetics. However, wood is unmatched for its liveliness, flex, and warmth in the hands. Wooden paddles do require some maintenance – dabbing varnish on a chipped area, to full sanding and refinishing. They are slightly heavier than fiber composites, but lighter than plastic or aluminum.

Laminated Wood paddles made with strips of wood bonded with strong glues, provide greater strength and stiffness. They transfer power better than one-piece paddles, but aren't as lively or shock absorbing. The more layers of lamination, the stronger, stiffer, and more expensive the paddle is.

One-Piece or Take-Apart?

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